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Let`s get to know Dorothée Kretly – Surfing has been taking over my life!

Auswandern, alles hinter sich lassen und ein neues Leben starten! Umgeben von Palmen, den besten Wellen und stets warmem Klima. Diesen Schritt in den absoluten Traum hat Dorothée Kretly gewagt und nennt jetzt CALI ihr zuhause. Von Frankreich nach Amerika, mit dem wichtigstem im Gepäck und ihrer grossen Liebe. Über diese unglaublich romantische und aufregende Reise, das Leben im Neuen und Dorothée die absolut passionierte Surferin entstand ein Interview der ganz speziellen Art. Wir freuen uns euch mit Dorothées Worten zu zeigen wie wichtig es ist den eigenen Träumen nach zu gehen und Neues zu wagen – Let`s get to know Dorothée Kretly!

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Hi Dorothée, how are you and what are you doing at the moment?

Hi! I`m doing pretty well thanks! I`m just back from an early morning surf session with my love, for me the best way to start the day!

Originally you`re from France, but than quite a lot changed, can you tell us a bit more about that?

I was born and raised in Brittany in a lovely town called Saint-Malo. But for the past 5 years I moved to the South West Coast of France for professional reasons. I completely fell in love with the area and it`s people. I also met my man and got married there! As of recently, we both moved to California because he had a good job opportunity. Without any hesitations, I quit my job to follow him of course!

Living in California seems like a surfer girl dream came true! How did your life changed since you call Cali your home?

You know as an European, living in Cali is like being in a movie. I bet you watched like me in the 90`s all these US TV shows of perfect families & friends right? Well I would say it`s pretty close to that – haha! More seriously, most of the people here are very kind and always smiling. There is so much inspiration, palm trees everywhere, always warm and sunny weather and the very strong surf culture of course! Almost everybody surfs here, it`s really like being on holidays everyday!

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Do you sometimes miss something?

I think what I miss the most is my family and my best friends, which is quite hard sometimes. We used to have so many cool moments with my friends, can`t wait to share some more with them! If your interested, we just created a new Instagram page = @chaton_pipi_team!

So you would do it again, pack all your stuff and go?

Sure yes!! I think this is the best thing that can happen into someone`s life. It was my absolute dream to do something like this and I would recommend it for anyone. It`s a little bit different, might scarier than just going to a foreign place for holidays. We had to drop almost everything immediately it came so fast and is a huge organization! Paper solving, finding a new flat, a new car, insurance, taxes, ect.

It`s a little frightening but so exciting in the same time! Then you start to have new habits and you change your way of living. Going somewhere for holidays is cool, but it`s just like seeing the tip of the iceberg. You feel more involved, like being little more a part of the community, and slowly you are getting attached by the country that welcomes you.

How would you describe yourself as a surfer?

It just brings me so much joy in so many ways. It allowed me to discover many beautiful places I would never known if I wouldn`t be a surfer. It also helps me to stay active but also to push my boundaries when the conditions get’s heavier. It`s a daily challenge to yourself really! It definitely helped me to built the person I am today and I am thankful for that. Surfing is very different to the other sports I`ve practiced before, it`s just a way of living and I think you all know what I mean!

Where did you started your surf journey?

I discovered surfing when I moved to Biarritz. I was a Kitesurfer before but Biarritz is most renown for its waves than for the wind. I needed to find a way to keep being in the water, so I borrowed my cousin`s old plastic surfboard and slowly started to have my very first sensations. After that I bought my first own surfboard and the true passion was born! Since four years now, surfing has been taking over my life!

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Growing up in the Brittany, if you can choose between the warm and the chili water, what do you prefer?

Even if the cold water is good for our blood circulation I would choose warm water with no hesitation. Bye bye wetsuit and hello bikini! You can literally spend an entire surf day in the water if you want to. You just need to find the perfect bikini that stays put during duck dives and wipeouts. I’ve chosen OY Surf Apparel, you should go check their website !

Besides surfing, what does inspire you?

Everything that involve a board! When there is no waves, I like to skate cruising with my friends or I`m always keen on going out for a wakeboard session. During winter time we go snowboarding and when I have the occasion I go kitesurfing. But all in one I just love to be outdoor with my husband, friends and family!

What`s your next destination your heading to or you might still dream of?

Me and my husband, we for sure have a few in mind! We are not to far from Hawaii so if we can, we would like to see that. Mexico is just a few hours driving too! But otherwise we were thinking about Tahiti, Philippines, Maldives, Mentawaii or Fidji Islands, we didn`t do any honey moon yet so we will see!

For the end do you have a hint for all the female surfers who would like to progress

Go surf as much as you can and stay strong mentally, surfing is a lot of hard and sometimes thankless work. So better find some “surf buddies”, the ones that are always smiling, laughing and keen on going, even for a shitty windy session! It makes it so much easier! It is important to be in the water with people you support and who supports you back. Everyone is pushing the others and it`s really good for your own progression. And at the end you need to have as much fun as possible!

 

Findet Dorothée Kretly auf Instagram und folgt ihr unter: @dori_kty

Fotos by: @ellismultimedia & @Saltedbeard

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